Interview
Regards croisés - Repositioning a watchmaking house in Japan: The Breitling example
In this new episode of our Business: Regards Croisés series, we meet Jérôme Schmutz, President and Representative Director of Breitling Japan. Drawing on his international background and deep experience of the Japanese market, he shares the key levers behind the transformation of a historic watchmaking house, as well as the factors for success in a demanding and constantly evolving cultural environment.
“Watches are part of your personality. In the end, it’s like a companion.”
Jérôme Schmutz’s career Path
Founded in Switzerland in 1884, Breitling was successively owned by the Schneider family before being acquired by the investment fund CVC Capital Partners just over seven years ago. It was at this turning point that Jérôme Schmutz joined the brand, drawn by the challenge ahead. He began as Asia-Pacific Manager based in Switzerland, then became Market Head in Australia. Three years ago, he arrived in Japan for a mission initially planned to last one year, in a post-Covid context where the brand needed to regain momentum.
The objective was clear: reposition Breitling as a major contemporary brand. In 2017, it ranked 19th in the Swiss watchmaking industry; today, it stands in the Top 10.
After one year, Jérôme Schmutz hesitated between a new assignment in Miami and continuing his journey in Japan. He chose Japan, driven by curiosity and the unique learning opportunity it represents.
Breitling: Between Technological Heritage and Lifestyle Evolution
Breitling is deeply connected to the history of aviation and horological precision. The brand played a major role in the development of the modern chronograph and launched the Navitimer in 1952, designed to meet the needs of aerial navigation. It also made its mark in the automotive world with models featuring tachymeter scales capable of measuring average speed.
Today, while remaining true to this heritage, Breitling is evolving toward a more accessible, lifestyle-oriented positioning. This strong legacy provides a foundation of trust to support a long-term vision in a market where the watch remains an essential product.
Japan: A Demanding and Highly Structured Market
The Japanese market places particular importance on technical expertise and precision. While Breitling enjoys a positive image, its global strategy must be adapted to local expectations. The purchasing journey is long and highly structured, sometimes involving up to fifteen touchpoints before the final decision, fostering a lasting relationship with the brand.
Breitling notably relies on the Breitling Club, accessible with the purchase of a watch, which offers events, services, and dedicated communication. Limited editions and the adaptation of colors or materials to local tastes also play a key role.
From a digital perspective, Japan favors an Online-to-Offline approach. While online purchases do exist, physical boutiques and human interaction remain central.
For a European company, succeeding in Japan requires patience and a long-term vision: staying true to one’s identity while speaking the language of the Japanese consumer is the key to sustainable differentiation.
